In previous entries, I haven't hidden the fact that I'm big on Baltic porters. My favorite examples blend the dark, rich malt backbone of a great imperial stout with clean fermenting lager yeast. The combination allows for a velvety smooth mouthfeel that doesn't get too complicated with all of the ale yeast esters that could potentially muddle the purity of the flavor that I appreciate so much.
With that said, I was more than a little excited to get my hands on the first bottled release of the Alaskan Brewing Company's version, simply called Baltic Porter. In the Seattle area, there is still quite a bit hanging around in bottle shops, as well as most local grocery stores with even a decent beer selection. The brewery claims (both on the battle and the website) that this vintage brew can and will age gracefully for years to come. As you will read soon enough, I believe this to be true, but I always like to drink one young to have a reference point for how the flavors are evolving.
Not having done any research on how this beer was created, I couldn't help but wonder about the yeast used for this brew. Baltic porters are one of the very few beers (if not the only one) that can be brewed with either a lager or an ale yeast strain and still be considered stylistically correct. Through numerous tastings of beers within this style, I have come to the conclusion that I usually prefer the lagered version. My initial assumption that this beer from Alaskan would most likely be an ale seemed to be confirmed upon opening the bottle.
A good sized hiss launched the aromas I would typically associate with a really good stout. Both dark and milk chocolate, deep roasted coffee, and a very distinct smell of Coca Cola Classic. Almost scary close to Coke. Another very obvious component on the nose is that of dark (maybe dried) cherries. After I went on their website, I realized it wasn't that crazy because they used 500 pounds of cherries during the brewing process. There was a musty, smokey quality to this beer that I couldn't exactly put my finger on. This smell blew off after a minute or two in the glass which opened a hole for the sweet aromas of vanilla and Red Vines to come through. A very interesting nose that I'm hoping comes together after spending some time in the bottle. To me, this beer just seems a little disjointed in the aromatic department.
The appearance was a little odd, too. Dark brown, almost black in color when the glass was upright. When tilted or swirled, the color seemed to disappear and what used to be really dark, looked almost like a tawny port. The light tan head rose and fell quickly, adding to the Coke/beer correlation that I got in the nose. As the drink went down, minimal lacing was left behind. Very surprising for a beer that comes across very sweet on the nose.
Though I still can't find it online, this has to be fermented with an ale yeast strain. There's just too much going on with the secondary flavors of this beer for it to be a lager. The first sip had me confused, to say the least. Bitter, and I mean bitter, chocolate flavors with a mouthfeel I'd normally associate with milk chocolate. This beer enters the mouth very smooth, but finishes with almost a tannic kick. I later learned that this beer was aged on toasted oak chips which could contribute to both the absurdly bitter flavor upfront as well as the tannins on the back. Both of these aspects should (and probably will) fade with time. Even as the beer started to go down, the sweetness perked up and started to bring things into balance, boasting flavors of cheap cherry cordials (the kind that are 16 for $1 at Bartell). For the record, I like cheap cherry cordials so this statement isn't a knock in any way. Black licorice, dried figs, and a warming bourbon-esque quality rounded out the flavors.
As I said before, the mouthfeel on this beer is pure silk. The problem is that it takes too long to get to that point. When first poured, the carbonation is simply too high and really takes away from the beer. Fairly good-sized bubbles ripped across my tongue and only heightened the bitter aspects of this beer, while washing away the potentially balancing sweetness. That said, once the carbonation started to escape and the beer gets a little air, this beer progresses nicely. The bubble size shrinks and the beer goes creamy.
All in all, a really tough bottle to gauge. There are very few beers that I would say this about, but it's just too young. Although I thoroughly enjoyed many of the flavors that I picked out, they didn't exactly harmonize. The bitterness was a bit harsh while the sweetness seemed a bit sticky. I'm happy about the fact that I have a couple of bottles put away to see how this beer does in the future, but I won't be opening them any time soon.
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